How Many CCs You Need (Oxygen Absorber Sizing Made Simple)

Choosing the right size oxygen absorber doesn’t have to be complicated—but it’s one of those details that can make or break your food storage setup. Too small, and you’re leaving oxygen behind. Too large, and you’re wasting supplies. So let’s break it down in plain English and help you figure out what size you actually need.

💨 What Oxygen Absorbers Really Do

At their core, oxygen absorbers are just little packets of iron powder. When exposed to air, the iron rusts—on purpose—and in doing so, it pulls the oxygen out of whatever space it’s in. That’s why they’re so handy for long-term storage of dry foods like rice, beans, flour, and pasta. No oxygen means no bugs, no mold, and no slow oxidation ruining your hard-earned food stash.

It’s important to understand: they don’t suck out all the air, just the oxygen. Roughly 21% of air is oxygen—the rest is mostly nitrogen and other gases. So even if your bag doesn’t look vacuum-sealed, your absorber may have done its job just fine.

✅ For more, see: How to Test If Your Mylar Seal is Airtight (Without Opening It)

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📏 Oxygen Absorber Size Chart

Here’s a no-nonsense chart that’ll give you a good starting point. Keep in mind that denser foods like flour and rice trap less air between grains, while lighter, more irregular foods like pasta and beans trap more air and may need a little extra oomph.

Container Size	Dense Foods (Flour, Rice)	Less Dense (Pasta, Beans)
1 Pint	50 cc	100 cc
1 Quart	100 cc	150 cc
1/2 Gallon	200 cc	300 cc
1 Gallon	400 cc	500 cc
5 Gallon Bucket	2000 cc	2500 cc
6 Gallon Bucket	2300 cc	3000 cc

📝 Rule of thumb: When in doubt, size up. Using extra won’t hurt anything—but skimping might.

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🧠 Smart Tips for Getting It Right

• Prep before you open: Once you tear into a package of absorbers, the clock starts ticking. Don’t open them until all your bags or containers are packed and ready to go.
• Know what “fresh” feels like: Good absorbers are soft and slightly squishy. If they’re stiff or warm to the touch, toss them—they’ve already absorbed oxygen.
• Don’t use with moist food: Anything with more than 10% moisture (like jerky, raisins, or brown rice) doesn’t belong in a mylar bag with an O₂ absorber. You’re asking for botulism. Stick with bone-dry goods only.
• Seal them up tight: If you don’t use a whole pack, store the rest in a mason jar with a tight lid—or better yet, vacuum seal them. Leaving them out on the counter for 30 minutes is a great way to ruin the whole batch.

📦 Need help with storage? Check out: How to Store Oxygen Absorbers Between Uses (Without Wasting Them)

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💬 Real Talk on Sizing Confusion

Oxygen absorber sizing gets confusing because not every food takes up space the same way. A gallon of flour has almost no air gaps. A gallon of pasta? That’s a different story. That’s why some preppers like to keep a single size on hand—usually 300 or 500 cc—and just adjust the quantity per bag. You can always double up if you’re unsure.

If you’re sealing a 5-gallon bucket of rice, for example, 2,000 cc is usually perfect. But if it’s filled with elbow macaroni, go for 2,500 or even 3,000 cc to be safe.

👀 Want a deeper dive? Read: How to Store Food with Mylar Bags and Oxygen Absorbers (The Right Way)

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🛒 Where to Get Them

Stick with reputable sellers—Wallaby Goods, PackFreshUSA, and USA Emergency Supply are solid options. Some cheapo brands skimp on quality or mislabel the cc rating, which could leave your food at risk. Always check for the freshness indicator (usually pink = good, purple = bad), and don’t trust a packet that feels like a brick.

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Final Thoughts

Once you get a feel for how many CCs you need per container and food type, the whole process gets a lot easier. The key is to stay organized, label your bags clearly, and double-check your seals. A good oxygen absorber is a simple tool—but when used right, it can give you peace of mind for decades.

Here is a JGP image of the chart, in case you want to save and print it.

Thanks for stoppin’ by!

Jelly Grandma